(From
Writings of Isabella C. Finlayson – 1934)
Moore Township is situated on the St Clair River, which forms its western boundary. On the north it is bounded by Sarnia Township, on the south by Sombra, on the east Enniskillen, and to the west the state of Michigan in America. It is twelve miles in length from north to south and eleven miles from east to west. The greater part of the surface is almost completely level, which made the drainage in the early days very difficult and this is still the chief problem with which the Township Council is concerned and the cause of great expense to the landowners.
On the west side there are several creeks which flow into the St Clair River, the largest being Talfourd’s Creek and Baby’s Creek. A larger stream Bear Creek enters the township between the eighth and sixth concessions on the east, and flows southwest till it enters Sombra Township. A few miles to the west is a branch off it, Burtons Creek, which also flows south.
The land adjacent to these streams is hilly and as it afforded easier drainage, was settled earlier than the region between there and the river.
The soil of the township is mostly clay except in the southern section where there is considerable black loam.
Before the white man established a claim on it, this region was a wilderness, densely covered by every variety of hardwood, some specimens of which grew to an enormous size. An Elm tree was cut on Lot 37, River Front, during the forties. A grown man lay across the stump with his head at the edge on one side, and his feet did not reach the edge on the other.
Indians peopled the country, and although just prior to the official survey and the general influx of settlers, they had been provided for on reserves, for many years they roamed at will and pitched their Tepees wherever they pleased. Especially was this so at Maple Sugar time, leaving their utensils at their chosen grounds from one season to another.
Disputing the privileges of the wood with the Indians were wild animal, bears, wolves, deer and many smaller species were plentiful and for many years after the settlers arrived their domestic animals frequently fell a prey to the wolves.
This was the condition of the Country when the white man arrived.
The voyageurs bateau and sailing vessels passed back and forth on the rivers and lakes, engaged in the fur trade. A sailor on one of these vessels landed on the shore of the St Clair River and proceeded to establish a home about 1800. This sailor was John Courtney, a native of England, and he was the first white settler, not only in Moore Township, but also on the east bank of the St Clair River. His farm was Lot 39, now owned by Neil Simpson. One proof of his early arrival is to be found in the cemetery on his son’s tombstone; the record being – “Born in Moore, 1802.”
The next settlers to arrive were French; one a squatter named Papineau, who settled on the lot, which afterwards became the Catholic Church property Lot 43, and another named Campeau, a bonafide settled on Lot 31.
He made good headway in clearing the land as he had forty-two acres cleared before the Township was surveyed. The date of their arrival is not known but it was before 1813. In 1813 Rufus Henderson came from Grosse Pointe near Detroit to Lots 6 and 7 and shortly afterwards James Baby from Windsor came to Lots 34 and 35.
Col. Mount, whose supplies consisted of a barrel of flour, a
barrel of pork and a barrel of whiskey, surveyed the Township in 1829.
At that time there were twenty-four settlers all on the river and ten were French
from the French settlements on the Detroit River.
Previous to this date, in 1826, what are now Moore, Sombra and
Walpole Island was called the District of St Clair. In 1829 the
name of this Township was then changed to Moore, in memory of
Sir John Moore, the noted British General, who died in
The Battle of Corunna, which was
fought on January 16, 1809. The
battle saved a British army from annihilation and resulted in the death of one
of its finest generals,who – “was buried darkly at dead of night” on the
battlefield in Spain.
Later
Wellington wasable to defeat Napoleon's armies
in Spain but in1809 the odds were all stacked
against the British.
Although surveyed
into Townships the territory remained a part of Kent County until 1850 when
Lambton County was divided off.
The township remained largely rural in character until Chemical Valley reached into it during the 1950s and '60s. In the year 2000 Moore Township will amalgamate with Sombra Township and become St Clair Township once again.
Dr. Dunlop who had
settled at Goderich, and who was the Canadian Manager of the Canada Land Co.,
wrote a book, “The Backwoodsman,” setting forth the opportunities to be
found in this Country. This book
was widely distributed in the Old Country, the result being a great influx of
Settlers from 1830 on.
Then too, the
British Government desirous of having the country settled as quickly as
possible, made some liberal grants of land to retired army and navy officers,
some receiving as much as five hundred acres.
A grant of one hundred acres was made to each private soldier who came
here to live. The Officers chose
their homesteads on the river.
The names of these
are: Capt. Story, Col. Graham, Admiral Vidal, R.N. Capt. Wright, R.N. Capt.
Keating, Alex Sinclair Pay-Sergeant Joseph Biddle and Mrs Patrick Donnelly whose
husband had been a Doctor in the British army. The names of other river settlers who purchased their land
were Reynolds, Kewley, Leslie, Gurd, Beggs, Wight, Ford, Cathcart, Johnston,
Bell, Brightwell, Stockdale, Gallineau, Sutherland, Abbott, Little, Watson,
Talfourd, Major McGlashan, Wheatley, Proctor, Warwick, Abernethy, William Scott
and Mrs Hannah Scott. These all came in the thirties.
The early Settlers
held their land by “squatters rights” until the township was surveyed, when
they were able to obtain the deeds. The
majority of them sold out their improvements however, to the new arrivals.
The first deed issued in the new township was to William Kewley in 1833
for Lot 11, River Front. He walked
to Chatham to obtain it.
Though the river
settlement was begun so early in the century it was not until the thirties that
the settlement of the interior began. In
1832 William Tremells came to Lot 17 on the sixth concession.
Other arrivals in the western half of the township during the thirties
were William Whittet, Henry Cross, John McLean and John Blackie also on the
sixth. Duncan McCash on the fourth,
William Turnbull, Phillip Reilley, James Butler, James Cruickshank, Baptiste
Viger, George Nesbit, Colon McDairmid, John and Joel Hiscott, Samuel Edwards and
Joseph Anderson on the eighth. Donald
Duncan and Alex Callum, William Fleck and John Perryman on the tenth.
Capt. Elliot and Richard Dobson, who received government grants and James
and Andrew Hossie on the twelth.
The Bear Creek
Settlement was also begun in the thirties with the arrival of Charles Duncan to
Lot 6 on the fifth and Donald Bruce to Lot 3 on the ninth in 1933.
They were followed during the thirties by Peter Duncan, John Grant, John
Galloway, John McKenzie, Samuel Harkness, George Grey, Finlay Farquharson, John
Coutts, Robert Faitborne, Robert Brown, James King, James Lang, William James
and Alex and David Nesbet.
The two sections of the township, the riverfront and the interior received two distinct classes of people as Settlers. Along the river besides the army and navy men were others of what are called the Official Class, businessmen, physicians, master mechanics and others in that line. While these found the conditions of living so different to those to which they had been familiar, the majority of them had enough money to make themselves fairly comfortable. In most cases they were able to hire help for the laborious work of clearing the land and also in the household tasks made doubly arduous owing to the primitive methods necessitated by the pioneer conditions of the country.
Mostly the labouring class, farmers, shepherds, sailors, fishermen, carpenters and private soldiers, settled the interior. This variety proved very fortunate for everyone. The river settlers, not being used to such strenuous work which the clearing of the land and wrestling a living from it entailed, were able to obtain help from those to whom hard physical labour was usual; they in turn were very glad to get the opportunity of earning the money which was the reward of teaching their employers, the arts of holding a plow, breaking in a yoke of Steers, planting crops and swinging an axe. This last accomplishment was the most necessary, as without it the land could not have been cleared of the dense growth of timber or even the houses built, as the most of the later were constructed of logs. The tale is told of some, who when using an axe to cut wood, stood in a tub or sugar kettle to protect their feet from injury.
In 1840 a system of municipal government was established to inaugurate, which, the settlers met on New Year’s Day and elected the officers required. Reeve Thomas Fisher, Clerk William McPherson, Treasurer Thomas Sutherland, Assessor George Wight.
The great need in those days was for roads and ditches. Then, as now, the only means of providing funds for this work was by taxation. In 1840 the first assessment roll was prepared, which showed the number if ratepayers to be one hundred and thirty eight. The taxes levied amounted to, from fifty cents to one dollar and fifty cents for each hundred acres. Although after the survey was made the government had the roads cleared of trees, it was many years before they became passable for any kind of vehicle, or even for pedestrians, except in the winter when the ground was frozen. The lack of roads that would permit of wheeled vehicles, was not severely felt for some time, as in 1840 there was only one four-wheeled wagon in the township.
There was one Grist Mill owned by Froome Talfourd who also owned the Saw Mill. James Baby, William Cathcart Sr., Louis Gallineau and Thomas Sutherland each operated a store and in addition Sutherland and Clement Bertrand each owned a warehouse. There were 67 horses, 63 oxen and 188 cows besides 68 other cattle. Five houses were of logs hewn on two sides and twenty-one of frame. Each of these contained one fireplace and some two or more. The other houses were of logs left in their natural state. Besides the 135 ratepayers listed, there were also 643 members of families but the wives were not mentioned.
In 1842 a District Council, which was composed of the Reeve from each township in Essex, Kent and what is now Lambton met at Sandwich. This council was the forerunner of the present County Council. Moore was represented by, James Baby in 1842 and 1843 and by Thomas Fisher from 1844 until 1853, the year of his death. In 1852 he was elected Warden.
All court business of this district was transacted at Sandwich also. A Frenchman living on the riverfront was called to serve on the jury. He had a sick wife and two small Children, one an infant, so he thought it was impossible for him to attend. The other men who went offered to explain his absence to the officials, but the excuse did not suffice. The Judge was highly indignant that anyone should disobey the summons and he levied a fine of $25. The poor man had to sell his cow to pay it, although the neighbours also gave contributions to make up to the amount.
Any business transaction in those days usually involved a long journey. Those whose privilege it was to vote for a representative to the Legislative Assembly, also had to make the trip to Sandwich, usually on foot, the journey requiring several days. As there were no voters’ lists, each man established his right to vote by producing his deed to his property and the receipt of last years tax bill.
Besides the land, which was given in grants to the army and navy men, the greater part of the remainder of the township was granted in 200 acre Lots to the sons of United Empire Loyalists who were settled in the eastern part of the province. These were required to have a well dug and a house built; the house in most cases being only a rude shanty. Apparently but a few of these came here to live but sold their land cheaply to incoming Settlers. Lot 23, Concession 7 was granted to a son of a U.E. Loyalist of Lincoln County in 1836. In the same year he sold it to a man from Toronto for 50 pounds sterling. He in turn in 1844 sold to John McLean for 75 pounds. He in turn sold it to his son John McLean for $3,000 and in 1880 this farm of 200 acres was valued at $10,000.
The price of one farm, of which the deed was granted direct from the governments in 1840, was 25 pounds. The price of another one of one hundred acres in 1858, half a mile distant cost $800. Even in those days speculators were abroad in the land. Some private individuals who had money, bought these land grants cheaply and resold them at a great profit, though the land still lacked improvement, hence the difference in price.
So much for the land, what about the people who had left the land of their birth, their friends and all the comforts they had previously known to brave the hazards of a long ocean voyage and the mysteries of the wilderness, to settle in a strange country. Why did they come? To satisfy a desire to become landowners in there own right. In the Old Country, the land was owned by the wealthy and was rented to the tenants under very hard conditions. Those wishing to improve their fortunes, eagerly seized the opportunity of cheap land, which provided a new country afforded. If they had families they were easily provided for here than at home. Many of the new Settlers were young couples, newly married, where others were young men or maidens eager to better their lot in life. The army and navy veterans, though drawing a pension, would have an opportunity of augmenting it by the advantages to be gained as landowners, and true to British traditions, were willing to endure the hardships entailed, for the purpose of extending the boundaries of Empire.
In those days as now, Detroit exerted an influence over the township though of a different kind. It was the source of supply for food and other commodities, which the Settler needed. One resident left the following description: “Detroit was the London of all the folks on the river. They bought, everything they wanted there, it being easy of access and its size offering a larger choice than could be obtained elsewhere. It is a great and growing place 9in 1848), though in the lifetime of a person still living - General Cass - it was only a little ‘French Village’ which it had been for one hundred years before.
Detroit was easy of access during summer when boats – the General Gratiot and General Brady – plied between here and Port Huron in Michigan’ but when they ceased to run the only way of travelling was on foot which many did. A bill of groceries bought by John Wheatley shows the price of such articles then -
Detroit, April 4th 1839 – Mr Wheatley, Bo’t of H Hyatt
6lbs of tea at 4 - 9…………...$3.54
4lbs of currants at 1- 6…… …$0.75
4 1/2lbs of coffee at 1- 4……..$0.68
1 gall of wine at 12 s………….$1.50
1 1/2lbs castile soap at 1 – 6…$0.28
5lbs of yellow soap at 1 - ……$0.63
7lbs loaf sugar at 1 - …………$0.91
$8.29
Although boats did bring supplies it was a strenuous undertaking for those living inland to convey them to their homes through the wood. Once, when the boat was delayed for some reason, a family on the river has to live for nearly a week on potatoes, as the supply of flour was exhausted.
That would not have seemed a hardship to a Settler further back who, after planting his potatoes one spring had to dig them up to use as food, and for three months the only form of flour another family had was cornmeal.
When the Settler had a little clearing made, his first crop was wheat, though it had to be scattered between the stumps, garnered with a sickle and threshed by a flail. The only means of grinding it was by a small hand mill, until commercial mills were built. Even then the grist was small, the farmer having to take only what he could carry on his back. Besides the disadvantages encountered in obtaining food supplies, mail facilities were also restricted. Mail for this region came to Detroit or Sandwich and was sent by boat to be dropped off where convenient. For some time this was at Sutherland’s but in February 1837, a post office was opened with James Baby as postmaster. This post office and the one at Sarnia established at the same time were the first in Lambton County.
Though no doubt the establishment of a post office was an event of importance, there appeared to be a limited amount of patronage, according to a record left by John Geike.
The post office was in a store owned by a French Canadian (and operated by his tenant) and was limited enough in its arrangements. I remember taking a letter one day a little later than was right. “It appears the mail is made up,” said the postmaster, well it is against the law to open it once it is sealed. “But I suppose I may as well oblige a friend.” So saying, he took down a piece of brown paper from the shelf behind him, cut around some seals which were on the back of it, and exposed the mail, which I found consisted of a single letter. Mine was presently laid peacefully at the side of the other, and I hope I did not make the bundle too heavy for the mail boy’s saddlebags.
For years the people were without medical services until the arrival of Dr. Thomas W. Johnston, in 1834. He ministered to the needs of the people under very trying circumstances, having to travel on foot or by horseback through the wood to reach his patients. When Sarnia showed signs of becoming a town, Dr. Johnston moved there and the people were dependent on the services of a Doctor from St Clair for some time until the village of Moore was founded in 1852. In 1870 Dr. Seager opened an office on the corner of the 8th Concession and No.10 side road.
For many years the only road in the township was the one along the river, though as late as 1839 it extended only as far north as the 8th Concession. Beyond that was chaos. When the Concession lines were opened up ditches were dug alongside the roadway, but it was many years before the roads even when cleared of debris, were anything but a morass.
The soil being heavy clay, when wet it rolled up on the wheels until they were entirely covered, when the weight of it would cause it to fall off, then the same process would begin again. The motive power being oxen and the conveyance a lumber wagon, speed was not a factor in the life of the pioneer. Though road improvement was ever before the people, the process was slow. It was not until late in the 1880’s that the main arteries running into Sarnia – the River Road, the Reserve Road and Kimball Side road, were gravelled.
With the new century, changes came. The Oxcart had long since given place to the democrat and teams of horses and that again to the height of luxury – a top buggy, which in its turn was succeeded by the automobile. Now the Concession roads were graveled and speed and more speed became the creed of the country. Twenty-five years ago the sight of an Automobile on the roads of the Township was a novelty, while at the present time it is the horse drawn vehicle, which is a rarity.
With the advent of the Automobile, pleasure seekers adopted the slogan “See Canada First,” and proceeded to do so by touring the River road. Today we see it - “The most Southerly section of the Blue Water highway” – under the supervision of the provincial government, being transformed into a paved road. Running as it does for a great part of its length, beside the river or within sight of it, this section of the highway will compare favourably in scenic beauty, with any part of it. There is only one St Clair. “The great resplendent river, flowing so softly it seems scare to move – its bosom a broad sheet of molten silver, on which clouds and sky and white sails and even the further banks, with the houses and fields and woods as far back from the water, painted as in a magic mirror – was a beautiful sight of which we never tired.” This description written nearly ninety years ago by John Geike, a resident on the riverbank, is equally true today.
In a quiet field overlooking the river, on the first farm settled in the Township stand two historic pear trees. These trees were planted by Catholic Priests who came as missionaries to the Indians some time in the eighteenth century. Although not less than one hundred and fifty years old, they still bear fruit. Beneath their shade were laid to rest, the remains of the first Pioneers – John Courtney and his wife, who for many years braved the dangers and solitudes of the wilderness, their only human company, the Redman of the forest. Here they have lain, as remote in death, from the turmoil of the world, as they had in life.
Today all is changed. Progress, in its ruthless march has encroached in their isolation. The new road runs adjacent to the ancient pear tree and the graves they have guarded for a century. Will the spirits of these Pioneers be disturbed by the traffic of a continent marching past?